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monthly emails: diciembre 2021
Greetings and salutations, and happy 2022 to all!
The current setting: fireside with a cuppa tropical tea in an Azorean traditional home, letting my hair dry after being caught in a rainstorm mid-hike this morning.
My 2022 was rung in two nights ago in a mostly anti-climactic scenario: I took a shower and heard most of the celebrations from my shampoo-soaked, low-pressure shower. *slaps forehead* This was entirely unplanned on my part and I attribute it to my long-spent day walking around the city of Porto. Maybe it was the fatigue, maybe it was the impatience to wait until midnight, or maybe it was forgetfulness – whichever way, I amusingly appreciated Porto’s celebration through the next morning’s confetti remnants, closed shops, rejected alcohol splatter, and sluggish partygoers loitering the streets and sleeping on corners or benches (even at 930am!). I also received a free wake-up call from what I guess are the elder shop owners around the building from my Airbnb. Drunk incantations in Portuguese at 530am are no more pleasant than ones in any other language.
I will share that I enjoyed a lovely solo dinner accompanied by red wine, churrasco steak, and patatas fritas to polish off what was a very full day for me, and my only full day in Porto. As an amateur gastronome, every day of course includes food! My itinerary was as follows:
Walk uphill to breakfast in the city center, a cappucino and two pasteles de nata, sweet egg and cream custards hailing from Portugal.
Walk around the city center, taking audio recordings of main streets and pedestrian streets. Stop for photos of murals and azulejos in Sao Bento Station and peppered across shop fronts.
Stop in Casa Guedes for the caldo verde, a collards and potatoes soup, and a Super Bock pilsner, an underwhelmingly average beer (would be the perfect choice for beer pong or flip cup…) but went well with the traditional Portuguese soup.
Keep walking and stumble upon an overlook that frames the Ponte Infante Dom Henrique, Ponte Luis I, and the Ponte D. Maria Pia bridges which tower over the Duoro river. Get a glimpse over what appeared to be ancient yet still occupied terraced gardens on the cliffside.
Walk down to the riverfront and play “dodge the tourist” on the Cais da Ribeira, a photogenic riverwalk peppered with street performers, artists, and cafes.
Cross the Duoro via the Ponte Luis I, built by Gustave Eiffel (does that name sound familiar?) and play the same game on the other side but in Gaia. Check out some of the old porto transport boats floating on the river.
Plop down at Sandeman Winery’s patio to eat potato chips and drink porto (a 10 year tawny) and vinho verde.
Meander home to change clothing before scrounging for any restaurant that will take a solo diner with no reservation. Luck out at a steakhouse and indulge in churrasco and red wine. Evening tea following at a nearby bar before heading home for Netflix, packing, and a shower.
After about 22k steps over Porto’s city terrain, it’s no wonder a shower closed out 2021 for me! This stopover here may have been the most relaxing part of my 3-week holiday thus far, though this upcoming week in the Azores may out-relax even that, especially as is evidenced by my current setting.
Before Porto, I had the pleasure of catching up with friends in two different locations to kick off my holiday. Mick Abram and Emily Buck (and their two chihuahuas Badger and Clover), friends from Spring Hill, hosted me in their new home in Belfast, taking me to a pub or two, the Giant’s Causeway, hiking, and even a chicken farm! The entirety of Ireland (North and the Republic) have my heart in a special way.
After Belfast, I found my way to Valencia, where I was hosted by the Kiraly family for Christmas. Kim Kiraly has been a friend since high school and a travel buddy since college. Along with Kim came her boyfriend Jerad, her sister KyleAnne and her boyfriend Dani (who live in Valencia – a teacher and a salesman/supplier for a vineyard, respectively), and Kim and KA’s parents Marcia and Dan, who live in my hometown of Glenview, Illinois. Valencia and Barcelona were both adventure-packed experiences, and I loved the chance to flex my Spanish language muscles.
It’s too much a challenge to describe in great detail my ongoings in those places, so I’ll be updating my Google Photos Album right after I click “send” so you can see for yourself the events. Photos and videos also speak louder than words, though I do plan on expanding on those times and adventures had when I update my blog later this week. Teaser: a LOT of food, beautiful sites, great people.
I’m on week three of four weeks straight of travel, for as soon as I return to little old Bra (which will really feel little after visiting big cities like Belfast, Valencia, Barcelona, and Porto), I have approximately 24 hours to do laundry, unpack, repack, and report for our first study trip with my Master’s program. Drum roll, please! The location is…the Piemonte. I’ll be honest, there were mixed feelings and responses to this for many of the students, as Bra is situated smack-dab in the middle of the Piemonte region so it doesn’t feel very different, foreign, or new and exciting. As part of our course of study, we have three study trips – one within Italy, one within Europe, and one global one, so this will count towards the Italian trip. I’m just grateful we’re not taking a virtual field trip! I can also imagine it being difficult for the Tutor Office, who runs these programs for us, to coordinate ~30 students during a pandemic. I may have experience and background in coordinating groups at Naples Botanical Garden but, let me tell you, that seems like easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy right now compared to what they have to tackle: EU COVID Digital Certificate requirements, capacity limits for restaurants and attractions, pre- and post-activity testing, and creating an exciting itinerary focusing on taste/smell/touch. Woof.
Planning that hectic day is for later, of course. For now, I’m enjoying my tea and the lovely Azorean stone home that protects me from the blustery winds outside. In a way this weather reminds me of a tropical storm on the Gulf Coast. It’s familiar and welcoming, but also just a tad terrifying as evidenced by the landslide remnants on streets and hiking trails seen today. Those things are very not Gulf Coast! After attempting three different trails today, I had to call it quits not only because most were roped off a bit distance in, but because wet, wet rain (the kind that gets you really soaked) swept in quite suddenly. Free shower? Sure. Also justifies my next load of laundry!
I think that’s enough rambling for now. I’ve got some relaxing to get back to! And to those that have responded…I promise to get back to you! This time around I don’t feel like I’m cramming this email in-between studying for my wine or olive oil exams and making it to gastronome holiday festivities. As fun as they all were, they were also quite draining. It’s been a welcome reprieve to sit and do nothing, at least for a few days before the adventure of life in Italy continues!
Big love from the Island of Sao Miguel in the Azores